KABLAY

Category: Plumbing

Tank removal

Removing a tank is a mid-level plumbing job: not as simple as swapping a tap washer, but not major work either. In 30–60 minutes a plumber takes a tank off for replacement, service, or relocation. A mistake = cracked porcelain and a ILS 2,000–3,000 whole-toilet replacement instead of a ILS 200 fix.

Why a tank gets removed

  • Replacing the tank itself — cracked or outdated.
  • Replacing the complete flush and fill mechanism. Easier access with the tank off and inverted.
  • Cleaning limescale inside the tank. After 10+ years, buildup "eats" volume and clogs valves.
  • Bowl repair under the tank (crack, chip, gasket replacement).
  • Before moving — porcelain transports better in pieces than whole.
  • Before painting/finishing the wall behind the tank.

What you need for the job

  • Adjustable or 10–13 mm open-end wrench (for the mounting bolts).
  • Phillips screwdriver — for some models.
  • WD-40 for seized threads.
  • Bucket or scoop — for residual water.
  • Rags — to collect water and wipe the area.
  • Pliers — if bolts are seized.
  • Level — for reinstallation alignment.

Sequence

  1. Shut off water. Angle valve under the tank (or apartment shutoff if absent).
  2. Fully drain the tank — press the button until water stops running.
  3. Bail out the residue. 1–2 cm remains at the bottom — scoop it out or mop dry.
  4. Disconnect the supply line. Tank-side nut, gently — flexible hoses are fragile.
  5. Remove the flush button/lever. Unscrew under the lid if mechanical. For pneumatic units — detach the hose.
  6. Lift off the tank lid. Straight up.
  7. Access the mounting bolts. Two bolts inside the tank, passing through the bottom into the bowl. Hold from above with a wrench, unscrew the nut from below.
  8. Prep for lift-off. Two people (a full tank weighs up to 15 kg), one holds while the other assists.
  9. Lift the tank off. Straight up, no tilt. A gasket (plastic/rubber, 3–4 cm thick) comes out from under the tank.
  10. Clean the mating surfaces on both the bowl and the tank — grime and old gasket remnants.
  11. Inspect visually under the tank — any cracks.

What to do with the open bowl opening

If the tank is off for a while (repair, waiting for a new one), keep in mind:

  • The bowl stays in place — the toilet can still be used, flushing manually with a bucket of water. The opening where the tank sits is the upper part of the bowl; water doesn't splash up there.
  • The opening at the top — can be covered with a lid or plastic to keep dust out, but not critical.
  • The supply line — free end, not leaking because the angle valve is shut. Wrap it in a rag to guard against an accidental valve open.

Typical difficulties

  • Seized bolts. Old brass or steel bolts, 15 years in limed water, fuse solid. Solution: WD-40 plus 20 min wait, heat gun (not flame!), or in extremis an angle grinder with a thin disc.
  • Stripped bolts. Especially on budget fittings — the head rounds out. Vise-grip pliers are needed.
  • Tank cracks on removal. If it was over-tightened, the porcelain is stressed and can split on lift-off. Remove slowly, no jerks.
  • Gasket "welded" to the bowl. Rubber, after a decade in water, fuses to porcelain. Slide a knife around the perimeter, ease it off.
  • Water under the tank. If the tank had been leaking a long time, water and grime have pooled under it. Needs a thorough cleaning.

How much it costs in Israel

  • Tank removal (without installation) — ILS 150–300
  • Removal + inspection + diagnosis (if replacement is needed) — ILS 200–400
  • Removal with seized bolts (lengthy, angle grinder) — ILS 250–500
  • Removal + reinstallation (e.g., for bowl repair) — ILS 350–700
  • With disposal of the old tank — +ILS 50–100

Tank removal is usually part of a larger job (replacement, mechanism service), so it's rarely booked standalone.

When you shouldn't remove a tank yourself

  • Without experience and the right tools — high risk of cracking the porcelain. Full toilet replacement costs ILS 1,500–3,000; savings on a plumber — ILS 200.
  • If the tank belongs to a wall-hung toilet (in a carrier frame) — this is harder, requiring access through the service hatch and special tools.
  • If you're planning a tank swap and aren't sure about bowl compatibility — a plumber will help select the right one.

Reassembly (if removed for repair/cleaning)

  1. New gasket on the bowl (old one trash).
  2. Place the tank on the gasket without any tilt.
  3. New bolts with rubber washers (two people: one holds from above, the other tightens below).
  4. Tighten crosswise, gradually, to firm contact. DO NOT over-tighten.
  5. Connect the supply line — a new flex hose is preferable to the old one.
  6. Turn water on, fill the tank.
  7. Test flush 5–10 times.
  8. Check every joint for leaks.

FAQ

Can the tank be removed alone?

An empty tank weighs 5–7 kg — easy solo. A full one up to 15 kg — better with two, otherwise you can drop it and crack the bowl. Always drain the water before removal.

How long can a toilet be used without a tank?

As long as you need. Pour a bucket (5–8 L) to flush manually. Inconvenient but fully functional. For a two- or three-day repair — fine.

Is a new gasket mandatory when removing?

Strictly — yes. An old gasket may deform slightly on reinstallation and leak in 30–40% of cases. A new gasket costs ILS 15–30; a plumber callback is ILS 200+. Buy a new one.

Where does the old tank go?

Not in regular trash — porcelain is heavy and sharp, it tears bags. Options: construction-waste center (ILS 50–100), sanitary-porcelain recycling (some accept free), or municipal bulky-waste pickup (free by phone to city services).