Removing a tank is a mid-level plumbing job: not as simple as swapping a tap washer, but not major work either. In 30–60 minutes a plumber takes a tank off for replacement, service, or relocation. A mistake = cracked porcelain and a ILS 2,000–3,000 whole-toilet replacement instead of a ILS 200 fix.
Why a tank gets removed
- Replacing the tank itself — cracked or outdated.
- Replacing the complete flush and fill mechanism. Easier access with the tank off and inverted.
- Cleaning limescale inside the tank. After 10+ years, buildup "eats" volume and clogs valves.
- Bowl repair under the tank (crack, chip, gasket replacement).
- Before moving — porcelain transports better in pieces than whole.
- Before painting/finishing the wall behind the tank.
What you need for the job
- Adjustable or 10–13 mm open-end wrench (for the mounting bolts).
- Phillips screwdriver — for some models.
- WD-40 for seized threads.
- Bucket or scoop — for residual water.
- Rags — to collect water and wipe the area.
- Pliers — if bolts are seized.
- Level — for reinstallation alignment.
Sequence
- Shut off water. Angle valve under the tank (or apartment shutoff if absent).
- Fully drain the tank — press the button until water stops running.
- Bail out the residue. 1–2 cm remains at the bottom — scoop it out or mop dry.
- Disconnect the supply line. Tank-side nut, gently — flexible hoses are fragile.
- Remove the flush button/lever. Unscrew under the lid if mechanical. For pneumatic units — detach the hose.
- Lift off the tank lid. Straight up.
- Access the mounting bolts. Two bolts inside the tank, passing through the bottom into the bowl. Hold from above with a wrench, unscrew the nut from below.
- Prep for lift-off. Two people (a full tank weighs up to 15 kg), one holds while the other assists.
- Lift the tank off. Straight up, no tilt. A gasket (plastic/rubber, 3–4 cm thick) comes out from under the tank.
- Clean the mating surfaces on both the bowl and the tank — grime and old gasket remnants.
- Inspect visually under the tank — any cracks.
What to do with the open bowl opening
If the tank is off for a while (repair, waiting for a new one), keep in mind:
- The bowl stays in place — the toilet can still be used, flushing manually with a bucket of water. The opening where the tank sits is the upper part of the bowl; water doesn't splash up there.
- The opening at the top — can be covered with a lid or plastic to keep dust out, but not critical.
- The supply line — free end, not leaking because the angle valve is shut. Wrap it in a rag to guard against an accidental valve open.
Typical difficulties
- Seized bolts. Old brass or steel bolts, 15 years in limed water, fuse solid. Solution: WD-40 plus 20 min wait, heat gun (not flame!), or in extremis an angle grinder with a thin disc.
- Stripped bolts. Especially on budget fittings — the head rounds out. Vise-grip pliers are needed.
- Tank cracks on removal. If it was over-tightened, the porcelain is stressed and can split on lift-off. Remove slowly, no jerks.
- Gasket "welded" to the bowl. Rubber, after a decade in water, fuses to porcelain. Slide a knife around the perimeter, ease it off.
- Water under the tank. If the tank had been leaking a long time, water and grime have pooled under it. Needs a thorough cleaning.
How much it costs in Israel
- Tank removal (without installation) — ILS 150–300
- Removal + inspection + diagnosis (if replacement is needed) — ILS 200–400
- Removal with seized bolts (lengthy, angle grinder) — ILS 250–500
- Removal + reinstallation (e.g., for bowl repair) — ILS 350–700
- With disposal of the old tank — +ILS 50–100
Tank removal is usually part of a larger job (replacement, mechanism service), so it's rarely booked standalone.
When you shouldn't remove a tank yourself
- Without experience and the right tools — high risk of cracking the porcelain. Full toilet replacement costs ILS 1,500–3,000; savings on a plumber — ILS 200.
- If the tank belongs to a wall-hung toilet (in a carrier frame) — this is harder, requiring access through the service hatch and special tools.
- If you're planning a tank swap and aren't sure about bowl compatibility — a plumber will help select the right one.
Reassembly (if removed for repair/cleaning)
- New gasket on the bowl (old one trash).
- Place the tank on the gasket without any tilt.
- New bolts with rubber washers (two people: one holds from above, the other tightens below).
- Tighten crosswise, gradually, to firm contact. DO NOT over-tighten.
- Connect the supply line — a new flex hose is preferable to the old one.
- Turn water on, fill the tank.
- Test flush 5–10 times.
- Check every joint for leaks.
Frequently asked
Can the tank be removed alone?
An empty tank weighs 5–7 kg — easy solo. A full one up to 15 kg — better with two, otherwise you can drop it and crack the bowl. Always drain the water before removal.
How long can a toilet be used without a tank?
As long as you need. Pour a bucket (5–8 L) to flush manually. Inconvenient but fully functional. For a two- or three-day repair — fine.
Is a new gasket mandatory when removing?
Strictly — yes. An old gasket may deform slightly on reinstallation and leak in 30–40% of cases. A new gasket costs ILS 15–30; a plumber callback is ILS 200+. Buy a new one.
Where does the old tank go?
Not in regular trash — porcelain is heavy and sharp, it tears bags. Options: construction-waste center (ILS 50–100), sanitary-porcelain recycling (some accept free), or municipal bulky-waste pickup (free by phone to city services).