Installing a toilet is the most critical plumbing job in the apartment: 50+ liters of water a day, plus sewer connection, plus 50 kg of porcelain. A properly installed toilet lasts 25–40 years without intervention. A badly installed one leaks at the joint or wobbles within half a year — and then the morning begins with a puddle on the tiles.
Toilet types on the Israeli market
- Close-coupled floor-standing — bowl plus tank with a shared thread, placed on the floor. The standard in most apartments.
- One-piece floor-standing — bowl and tank cast as a single piece. Attractive, but heavier (up to 80 kg) and more expensive.
- Wall-hung — the bowl hangs on the wall, the tank is concealed inside the wall (carrier frame). No contact with the floor, easier to clean. Requires complex preparation.
- Back-to-wall — the bowl sits on the floor against the wall, the tank is hidden in the wall. A middle ground between floor-standing and wall-hung.
- Bidet-function (shower toilet) — built-in bidet, hot water and electrical connections. Premium, ILS 3,000–25,000.
In Israeli apartments, 90% are close-coupled floor-standing units, gradually being replaced with wall-hung models during renovations.
What a floor-standing toilet installation includes
- Dry fit. The toilet is placed without fasteners — the outlet alignment with the sewer pipe is checked.
- Marking the fastener holes. Holes are marked for anchors or through the provided openings in the toilet base.
- Drilling the floor. A hammer drill goes through the tile into concrete — 50–60 mm deep.
- Connecting the outlet to the sewer. Via eccentric, corrugated pipe, or straight flange — depending on outlet type (horizontal, angled, vertical).
- Placement and fastening. The toilet goes into position and is secured with bolts and rubber washers under plastic caps.
- Tank assembly. Mounted onto the bowl via a rubber gasket and metal bolts.
- Water supply hookup to the tank. Through an angle valve and flexible hose.
- Mechanism adjustment. Fill and flush valves calibrated to water level.
- Base sealing. Silicone around the toilet-to-floor contact (3 points — not a continuous ring, so that any leak underneath can be spotted).
- Seat installation. Lid fitting.
- Test flushing 10–15 times. Checking the tightness of every connection.
Outlet types (for choosing a toilet)
- Horizontal — the pipe goes into the wall. Standard in newer Israeli apartments.
- Angled — the pipe goes into the floor at an angle. Common in apartments from the 60s–90s.
- Vertical — straight into the floor. Rare, in specific layouts.
- Universal — a toilet with a transition adapter, fits any outlet type.
Before buying a toilet, always check which outlet type you have. If unsure — ask the plumber.
How much it costs in Israel
- Close-coupled floor install onto existing sewer — ILS 400–800
- One-piece installation (heavier, requires two people) — ILS 600–1,200
- Wall-hung installation (with the carrier frame already assembled) — ILS 700–1,400
- Install with removal of the old unit — +ILS 200–400 on top of the base price
- With outlet repositioning (10–30 cm shift) — +ILS 400–900 plus adapters
- With water supply point relocation — +ILS 200–500
- With shower-toilet / bidet unit — ILS 1,200–2,500 (separate electrician required)
What to prepare before the plumber arrives
- The toilet itself in factory packaging. Inspect for chips — returns are often impossible after opening.
- The tank with its mechanism (usually included).
- The seat (often purchased separately — check).
- Flexible water hose 30–50 cm, 1/2" — 3/8" threading.
- Corrugated pipe or eccentric for your outlet type.
- 1/2" angle shut-off valve — if none is present.
- Sanitary silicone matching floor/toilet color.
- Manufacturer's manual.
How long it takes
- Close-coupled floor unit on existing connections — 1–2 hours.
- One-piece — 1.5–2.5 hours.
- Wall-hung with an existing frame — 2–3 hours.
- With outlet or supply relocation — 3–5 hours.
- Full install with carrier frame from scratch — one working day.
Typical mistakes
- Continuous silicone seal around the base. If it leaks under the toilet — you won't know in time. Leave 10–15 cm silicone-free at the back for visual inspection.
- Over-tightened fastening bolts. The porcelain cracks and the toilet is a write-off. Tighten only to firm contact, never past it.
- Wrong outlet angle. A kinked corrugated pipe clogs. A straight line from toilet to sewer is mandatory.
- Old gasket between tank and bowl. If carried over from the old toilet — it leaks within half a year. Always new.
- No level check. A crooked toilet is visible — water pools on one side of the bowl, salt stains remain.
- Skipping the angle valve. To replace the tank or service the mechanism you'd have to shut off the whole apartment.
Frequently asked
Can a toilet be mounted without bolts (on silicone alone)?
No. Silicone will hold it in place for the first few months, but every time someone gets off the seat the toilet shifts, the silicone tears, and you end up in a puddle. Bolts into the floor are mandatory.
Is a gasket (rubber or felt) needed under the toilet?
It depends on how level the floor is. If the tile is perfect — no. If there are 2–5 mm irregularities — a pad and/or silicone seal compensates and prevents rocking. Heavy one-piece units can crack even porcelain stoneware without a pad.
How soon can I use it after installation?
Right after the plumber does the test flush. The only limitation is that the silicone around the base should not be wetted for 24 hours, but you can use the toilet itself — the outside silicone stays dry.
What happens to the old toilet?
The plumber usually hauls it away for ILS 50–150 or free (if bundled with new install). In Israel, municipal bulky-waste pickup by phone works in most cities. The toilet is broken up with a sledgehammer before disposal — porcelain is not accepted whole.