What can be restored and what cannot

Restores well

• Cast-iron sinks (especially old Soviet-era pieces) — an ideal substrate; the thick body holds new enamel for years.
• Enameled steel — also works, although adhesion is slightly weaker.
• Earthenware with surface chips — if chips are small (up to 2–3 cm) and not all the way through.
• "Tired" acrylic — yellowing, scratches. Restorable with acrylic-specific coatings.

Restores poorly

• Ceramic with a deep crack — the crack telegraphs back through the enamel within a couple of months.
• Heavy wear + old rust on steel — requires cleaning down to bare metal, which is close to replacement cost.
• Glass (vessel) — cannot be reglazed at all, replaced whole.
• Stainless steel — not reglazed, but can be polished.

Methods of restoration

1. Liquid acrylic ("pour-in" for sinks)

An old technology adapted for sinks. Acrylic is poured in a thin layer, self-levels, and cures in 24–36 hours. Produces a glossy, even coating.

• Lifetime — 8–15 years.
• Price — 450–900 ILS per sink.
• Downside — a seam on the bottom edge where acrylic drains.

2. Two-component enamel (spray)

Enamel is sprayed with a professional setup. The result is a thin, very smooth coating.

• Lifetime — 5–10 years.
• Price — 350–700 ILS.
• Downside — needs good ventilation; solvent smell for 1–2 days.

3. Epoxy (brush-on)

The cheapest and weakest option. A brush applies two coats of epoxy. For cheap, temporary restoration before selling an apartment.

• Lifetime — 2–5 years.
• Price — 200–400 ILS.
• Downside — brush marks, wears off quickly around the drain.

How the job goes

1. Removing the faucet and drain — so the sink has full access and they do not get coated.
2. Degreasing and removing the old finish. A sander with abrasive takes off the top layer of glaze. The goal is adhesion for the new coat. Dust is collected with a vacuum.
3. Filling chips and scratches. Two-component filler, sanded flush after cure.
4. Degreasing. With solvent, several passes, until fully dust-free.
5. Masking. Everything around the sink (tile, countertop, walls) is covered with film and tape.
6. Applying the coating. Two or three coats with 20–40 minutes between them. For acrylic — a single pour.
7. Curing. 24–36 hours. The sink must not be used.
8. Reinstalling the faucet and drain, resealing with silicone.

What it costs in Israel

• Liquid-acrylic reglazing — 450–900 ILS
• Two-component enamel spray — 350–700 ILS
• Epoxy coating (budget) — 200–400 ILS
• Restoration with chip repair over 2 cm — +150–300 ILS per chip
• Faucet removal/reinstall (if a separate plumber) — +150–250 ILS

For comparison: a budget new ceramic sink is 350–700 ILS, plus 500–800 ILS labor to replace. Total 850–1,500 ILS. Acrylic reglazing is 500–900 ILS.

When restoration makes sense, when replacement does

Restoration wins if:

• The sink is "native" and attractive — old cast iron, marble, designer.
• Non-standard dimensions — replacement would require retiling and cabinet adjustments.
• Countertop demolition during replacement is more expensive than reglazing.
• Temporary solution — before selling the apartment or in a rental.

Replacement wins if:

• The sink is a standard unit, 400–700 ILS in the store.
• There are deep cracks or through-chips.
• Faucet and trap are being replaced anyway — a full new set is simpler.
• You plan to live in the apartment 10+ years — enamel lasts 8–10, a sink lasts 20+.

Caring for new enamel

• No abrasive powders (Cif scrub, Gala, etc.) — they strip the top layer. Only liquid creams and gels.
• No concentrated bleach — yellows and destroys the surface. Diluted bleach, rinsed off quickly.
• No hot pans straight from the stove onto the enamel — thermal shock, cracks.
• No dropping heavy objects — unlike cast iron, the enamel layer chips.
• For the first 7 days after application — handle very carefully, the enamel is still reaching full strength.