Hydrodynamic cleaning — or hydro jetting — means feeding a thin hose with a nozzle into the pipe while a powerful pump delivers water at 150–250 bar. The jet thrusts backward and pulls the hose forward, simultaneously stripping the walls. It is the "deepest" cleaning method available without opening the pipes.
How it works
- The plumber brings the unit: a high-pressure pump (petrol or electric), a hose reel, a set of nozzles.
- The hose is fed through a cleanout, the toilet or an inspection tee.
- The nozzle has rear-facing jets set at an angle — the jets push the hose forward along the pipe.
- At the same time, the front jet breaks the plug and the rear jets wash the walls and carry water and debris back to the entry point.
Residential work typically uses 150–200 bar. Shared stacks and external collectors — up to 250–300 bar.
When hydro jetting is truly needed
- Grease clogs in kitchen stacks — a snake punches through but does not remove them, and they recur every month.
- Salt and lime deposits in long horizontal runs (older buildings, long service life).
- Long pipe runs — 15+ metres, where a standard snake no longer reaches or bends.
- The drain has been reworked several times with many bends — a snake struggles, but the jet follows the pipe geometry.
- Prep work before a camera inspection or relining — the pipe must be clean to see its real condition.
When hydro jetting is overkill
- A trap clog in the tub or sink — faster to remove and rinse the trap.
- A one-off toilet blockage caused by a foreign object — you need a snake, sometimes dismantling.
- Old cracked cast-iron pipes — high pressure can rupture the pipe at a weak spot. The plumber will camera-inspect first.
What to prepare
- Clear access to the entry point (cleanout tee, toilet).
- The plumber brings protective sheeting, but it is better to move rugs and small items out of the area in advance.
- Warn downstairs neighbours: during the work, dirty water can also rise from their stack if the blockage is in the shared pipe.
- Do not schedule during a shower or a washing-machine cycle — the bathroom needs to be free.
How much it costs
- Single apartment line (sink + tub + toilet) — ILS 700–1,200
- Shared stack or basement horizontal — ILS 1,200–2,500 (usually paid by the ועד בית)
- External outlet or private-home collector — ILS 1,500–3,500
- With camera inspection after cleaning — +ILS 300–600
- Night or Shabbat emergency call-out — +40–80%
How long the effect lasts
After proper hydro jetting, a kitchen stack typically stays clean for 2–5 years (depending on how much grease enters the drain). Bathrooms — 3–7 years. If the effect lasts less than a year, the problem is not the deposits but the pipe itself: sag, crack, reverse slope. Then the next step is a camera inspection and either a local repair or relining (replacement from the inside without opening walls or floors).
Frequently asked
How loud and messy is it?
The pump is as loud as a petrol strimmer, but the indoor work takes 1–2 hours. There is almost no mess: water with deposits flows back into the stack through the entry point, and the plumber puts down sheeting.
Will 200 bar damage old pipes?
Standard PVC and multilayer pipes — no, they are rated for much higher. Old corroded cast iron — theoretically yes, which is why an experienced plumber first runs a snake or inspects with a camera before deciding whether to jet.
How is hydro jetting different from "Krot" and household gels?
Chemicals soften organic matter but only act where water sits (usually in the trap and the first bend). Hydro jetting physically removes deposits from every wall along the whole pipe length — the effect is comparable to replacing the pipe.
Can I schedule hydro jetting preventively, just in case?
For an apartment — it makes sense every 3–5 years, especially if you cook a lot. For restaurants, cafes and food service — mandatory 1–2 times a year. For a private home with a septic tank, it is also useful before a septic pump-out.